Installing headset bike

You must first make sure that the frame you are going to install a headset on is reamed and faced. Moreover, you will have to go through a lot of trouble while installing and adjusting the headset. Therefore, always ream and face the frame before you install a headset.

In case your frame is reamed and faced, it is time for you to start installing the headset. The crown race must be seated on the fork crown. You will need a crown race slide punch. All this can be combined to define the precise specification for the upper and lower bearings of the headset. The crown race angle may further be identified by an angle specified in brackets.

This is particularly relevant for integrated crown races, where the angle is fixed at either 36 or 45 degrees.

In our experience, this measurement is unlikely to vary much between headset designs, and any differences are likely to be negligible. Defining the SHIS code will tell you what kind of headset will fit the bike, but there are also some additional choices you can make. Special-purpose headsets can significantly change your ride and are becoming more popular in mountain biking as a cheaper way to tune your geometry.

Similarly, a reach-adjust headset allows you to fine-tune the reach of a bike. Rather than adjust the angle of the steerer, the whole steerer is offset within the head tube. Some manufacturers offer overbuilt headsets for heavy-duty use, but even for mountain biking, we feel this is overkill.

Suspension provides more than enough damping to reduce the forces going into the headset. Bearings come in two flavours. In the past, loose balls were sometimes held in place in bearing cages.

That has changed, with the majority of headsets now using cartridge bearings. Because the headset has to deal with complex loading, with force transmitted along the axis of the steerer as well as laterally, it should be fitted with angular contact bearings that are able to support load in both these directions. At that point, take the fork out of the head tube and check the bearings. They may need replacing or cleaning and regreasing.

You should also regularly check headsets for play, which could indicate wear or a loose headset. We recommend applying the front brake and rocking the bike back and forward while grappling the crown of the fork. Home Features The ultimate guide to headsets. Related reading How to assemble a bike Complete guide to bottom brackets How to service a headset and replace headset bearings How to adjust your handlebar height. Bearings generally sit with a sliding fit in headset cups. Older loose bearings rolled directly on the hardened steel race.

Velo Orange. This schematic shows how a threaded headset works. Wikipedia Creative Commons Thewinch. On the right bike, a quill stem can give a really elegant overall look. A typical external threadless headset. This schematic shows how a threadless headset is put together.

Wikipedia Creative Common Thewinch. A star nut on the left, and an expander on the right. Tightening the top cap applies preload to the headset bearings. The split compression provides the interface between steerer and top bearing. An external headset is the original threadless design. A semi-integrated headset sits within the headtube. An integrated headset creates a clean look if you clean your bike. Manufacturers will often choose to mix different types of headset.

The crown race supports the cycling load. A split fork race is easier to install and remove. Tapered steerers are widespread on modern bikes. It was once all so simple with only a few headset standards on the market. The Cane Creek AngleSet angles the steerer in the head tube to modify your geometry. The ViscoSet uses keyed washers, which together with a fluorocarbon grease offer steering damping. Look for decent sealing in the top cap to protect your bearings from the elements.

Cartridge bearings contain all the bearing parts in one unit, making assembly a lot simpler. Never ride with a loose headset or permanent damage to the bearings WILL result. When determining proper preload, hold the front brake while trying to rock the bike forward and back, no "clunk" should be felt. Now raise the bike on it's rear wheel so that the down tube goes from headset to bottom-bracket, or cranks is vertical. Put your ear to the frame and listen for a rumble when you turn the wheel, which indicates "too tight".

If all is good, you have set preload properly, recheck after 10 miles and adjust as necessary. Now and only now, are you done. The preferred method is to use a screwdriver or punch working from the inner part of the head tube, as shown above, pressing them outwards in a circular motion to avoid yoking out the head tube, where the press-fit of the cones will not be so effective thereafter.

Try to tap them out as evenly as possible. A safety measure is to tie wire or string through the headset to prevent cups from flying out of control once they break free Never grease the fork to get an inner headset race onto it!

The proper method is to drive the lower cone on with a suitably-sized pipe section just large enoughj to slip ofer the steerer tube of the fork but not so big as to collide with the bearing race surfaces. The lower cone is to be driven on by hammering on said pipe until it lands on the lands above the fork crown.

The only time the lower headset cone should be removed is for replacement. Introduction: Install a Headset in a Bike. By joe Follow. More by the author:. About: I like to tinker with just about anything, sometimes it works out in the end. Have fun looking at the projects, try tearing something open and let me know how it goes. Did you make this project?

Share it with us! I Made It! Wellington Batista 5 years ago. Reply Upvote. Danny 15 years ago. TheThompsonFive 15 years ago on Step 5.