How to install a turbo on a subaru impreza

The engine is solid and will probably run to , with very few issues. Great in snow and cold. One of the most fun small cars to drive out there.

There are some quirks to the model. The driver side seat belt squeaks every time you move even an inch. Can you turbo a Subaru Impreza? Table of Contents. What would I expect to pay for stock engine and turbo with labor on replacement? You can buy a Short block new from Subaru and have someone local check the heads, if they are damaged you will need to source out individual components.

There is no such thing as a Long Block or complete engine from Subaru. You could repair what you have if you are capable, or if you can find a capable shop but there will be some serious down time. You cannot install an H6, or well I should say you cant very reasonably or without great difficulty, you would be better off just buying a H6 model.

Justin, I just purchased a 05 legacy gt turbo and not miles into it and I believe the turbo failed made a weird noise and no longer has a boost I was blocks from home so I took it easy and got it home how do I know if engine damage is done.

There is no warranty so any help or advice would be great also I see from the history that it was serviced regularly and only 1 owner. Fingers crossed. Ok, so I am going to take it into subaru to fix however is it standard practice to replace the engine if the turbo fails or only if the oil pan has stuff in it?

I trust subaru brand and I know the turbo requires more maintenance and I can see it was well taken care of by the prior owner 05 with just now k. Justin, thanks for your help, I will be taking it to Subaru lithia in Reno Nevada… Well I guess we will have to see what they say, hopefullly its not too bad.. Thans again!! Could these be related? The turbo on my Forester XT went out the second week of January Had it replaced.

Just 3 weeks ago it went out again. Took it to same place and they covered the replacement due to their one year parts and labor warranty. CEL has not come back on but its only been driven 10 miles. So, my question for you. Would running the cleaner through the engine be similar to removing the oil pan and cleaning? More thoughts. They told me they did not replace the banjo bolt the first time but just cleaned it. This time they replaced it. Id be concerned with the ACVS solenoids having some debris or there still may be debris in the oil pan?

There is no substitute for removing the oil pan and cleaning out any metal debris, and I would worry if that step was not followed the original repair was incomplete. Justin, thanks for a very informative site.

I recently purchased a 06 Legacy GT with about K on it. The previous owner did say he changed the oil every 3, miles with is good but only used regular oil. I switched over to full synthetic and so far, so good. With K on the odometer it still purrs like a kitten. VW did have a problem with turbo failures and cars when the owners ran regular oil. Apparently the oil coked up in the turbo, restricting flow and causing failure.

But with full synthetic even VW recommends 10k change intervals on their recent vehicles. My wife worked for a VW Dealer for years, fist of all the oil filter size on a Jetta is much larger than the Subaru, second even cars running full synthetic came in with Turbo failures Im glad you have had the experience you have had, but understand this, to me, someone who profits from people not changing their oil and causing damage much more so than I ever will profit trying to change your oil, 10, miles on oil and filter in just plain dangerous even on the VW.

You can also think about a turbo timer it can help. I suggest blend or Full synthetic and oil changes every miles on the Subaru you drive, you can try replacing the filter every miles and topping off the oil if you want to run a good full synthetic but I would still stick to plan A. I started using the extended performance version of Mobil 1, and then I switched to Redline 5w30 synthetic. More recently, I began using MicroGreen extended service oil filters. I have been in the 5, to oil change class, and only recently did I read that Subaru considers Turbo severe use and the information regarding the banjo bolt filter in the turbo oil line.

I bought the bolt and washers to replace it, but my mechanic said he was afraid to remove the turbo to get to it because one of the bolts might break. Any thoughts? Thank you Justin. SOA should be thanking you for doing something they are not in regard to this ticking time bomb on older Subarus and owner education. It provides a filter that is described as being more accessible and less restrictive than the banjo union fitting filter. Would higher oil flow they claim benefit the longevity of the Subaru turbocharger?

Lastly, is there any mileage when you believe the Subaru owner should replace the turbo preemptively in regard to failure from wear and tear? I strongly believe that good maintenance is how you avoid Turbo failure. If there was something else I thought anyone could do I would post it. I cant comment on any of the products you are mentioning specifically, I understand the desire to want to make it better, but do worry about the quality of a lot of aftermarket products over the long run. I did look at the Website for K and P, they do not show the Subaru filter when you put in the Subaru OE part numbers, only when you use a Fram or other aftermarket part number for a cross reference.

They also do not list the Bypass specs, I think the filter would be good for a race but not for a daily driver. Complete rebuild including disassemble, cleaning, checking all tolerances and dimensions, polishing turbine shaft, media blasting, honing, new bearings, new seals, new thrust components, dynamic balancing, reassemble, VSR cartridge balancing.

I cant comment on the Company in California that is offering to Rebuild the Turbo, We have seen rebuilt Turbos come with disastrous results in the Past, as such do not at this time advocate the use of a rebuilt Turbo. They have only been in Business for two years as far as I can tell, If you have any knowledge of anyone that has used there service and has had good long term success I would like to know.

What you do as a DIY is really up to you, and you hopefully will have great results, because I run a shop that offers warranties I typically just cant gamble with something like a rebuilt Turbo, if it fails and destroys the engine I will have a potential mountain of liability with no one standing behind me.

Thanks again Justin. I appreciate your expert advice. I have a hard time spending over 50 dollars for Redline every miles. Do you have a synthetic that you recommend?

Within just a few weeks I began on occasion to see smoke coming from tailpipe and hood vent. Took the vehicle back to the dealership before the ninety day warranty was up, expressing serious concerns about the smoke. They gave me free oil change and sent me on my way with implications that they would help me out if a more serious problem did prove itself.

Less than miles later on a rare trip in stop and go traffic, the smoke emission became extraordinary. I added four quarts! I am petitioning them and Subaru for at least some help in rectifying this situation.

I am shocked and heartbroken to read here that most likely there has been damage to the engine, too. Once it is repaired I will get rid of this car, with its diva-esque ridiculously high mechanical maintenance demands, and I will not buy another Subaru if they will not stand behind and make right.

I think you might consider an economic justice petition at change. Subaru has to decide how much their reputation is worth. I used Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 starting at 18, miles and changed about every to miles. I switched to Redline 5w30 at about 45, miles. I am at 59, miles now and just did an oil change with Redline. I discovered it on my own. SOA states that I must change my oil and filter at miles. If I use the extended performance version of Mobil One, at what intervals must I change my oil?

Going back to my original inquiry, does Mobil exclude Subaru Turbos as being able to have extended oil changes? In the event that occurred, what would Mobile One do if made a warranty claim?

You can document everything, which is a good idea to do at all times. If Mobil believed it was an oil lubrication related failure, we reserve the right to perform an oil analysis which will show if the oil is within factory specifications. This is how we understand whether it is an oil related failure or something else such as mechanical or in your case, sounds like an engineering or design problem from the factory.

SOA states that it is a matter of lubrication, and if fact, in their later turbo models state that synthetic oil is required, but they still require oil to be changed every miles. With proven protection for. This is not about turbo design issues; this is about how the oil holds up.

It also suggests that it will clean any sludge from my engine after just one oil change. Subaru says the oil, even synthetic oil, must be changed every miles if your Subaru is factory turbo equipped. So can I drive my turbo Subaru confidently with your extended performance grade oil for 15, miles without worries that little filter to the turbo will clog from engine contaminants from oil break down?

Or must I change it every miles as Subaru states? I am not an engineer, but Subaru and Mobil One both have the top engineers in the world of engine manufacturing and synthetic oil engineering. Most say that the expensive oils such as Mobil One is a waste of money if you have to change your oil at miles. So, who is right, Subaru or Mobile One? When must I change my oil? Thank you again for you advice. Regards, Eugene P. I went a step farther and made what I thought was a reasonable proposal.

Could you do me a favor? I would like for my e-mail to get sent way on up the flagpole. I think Mobil One would try and wriggle out it. I have done hours of research, and most Subaru turbo equipped owners are of similar mind. No one thinks that they can get away with not changing their oil other than at the interval. Everybody is worrying about it. So what I would suggest to your managers is to address this for all Subaru Turbo owners.

Split the difference and agree to warrant all of these turbos and engines from failure related to oil starvation or oil break down when changed every miles or six months, whichever occurs first if the owners use Mobil One EP. You would build unquestionably loyal brand users, and since you would be doing exactly as Subaru of North America is doing, cutting your normally recommend change interval by one half, everyone would think you are making a genuine effort to address this Subaru concern, unlike Subaru of North America.

In fact, you could include use of your synthetic oil filters as part of the deal. The answer to your inquiry has been provided, the decision on what you would like to do and utilize is upto you now.

Mobil does not have any further comment regarding this specific inquiry. After a period of time the oil filter can go into by pass mode adding to the contamination of the oil in the way of debris, no one is trying to convey that its to contaminated to lubricate, but that the particles that are traveling though the oil system and no longer through the oil filter can and will clog any and all orifices smaller than the particles making contact with them.

This over time will clog the filter at the banjo bolt resulting in failure of the turbo due to oil starvation not because the oil itself failed to lubricate it.

Another words a turbo can and will fail on new, fresh, clean oil if the screen in the banjo fitting is clogged the two have nothing to do with one another at that point. The clogging happened over time, the oil is in good shape and did not cause the turbo to fail at this time. So if the Turbo or engine fails because of a clog, and the oil checks out just fine they would not cover the repair and nor should they.

Now if you want to ask Mobil, if from day one of new you switched to Mobil, changed the oil on the 15k interval as they claim and the filter at the turbo clogged would they cover it? That would be the question to ask, but alas it no longer matters because there is no such thing as a new to Subaru Turbo vehicle any longer. Asking Mobil if they will cover a blown turbo and engine because something clogged and not that the oil failed to lubricate and letting them test and decide for themselves would be as silly as letting Congress vote for pay raises for themselves, oh wait.

In fact, that worries me tremendously. What if you replace it? Then should M1 warrant if it clogs while using M1? Companies market to get you to buy their product, they do it in a way that the claims they make are worded loosely enough to ever haunt them.

Seems to me you advice is simple. Remove the banjo union fitting screen done and change your oil and filter every miles. Every other part of the discussion appears irrelevant from your perspective. Justin, thank you for your excellent posts and advice. This past summer I noticed the turbo whine for the first time at 78, miles or so.

A couple of weeks later I noticed the oil was low almost 2 qts! It never used oil before. I took it to Subaru and they cleaned the oil and banjo screws and I was good to go. Am I potentially hearing the beginning of bearings failing or some such?

Thanks in advance for your answers. I assume the dealer did it this past August when I took it in for service specifically for the turbo. Is that where the whine is coming from?

Hie guys,I have a Subaru Forester. Every time the turbo starts to spool it makes a unusual noise and the car starts to jerk at this moment,and right now the output power is not sufficient.

That is ridiculous. Thousands of Subaru owners could have saved thousands of dollars if a turbo failure warning was given the degree of urgency it deserves. Which car company has a separate light for a turbo failure? Turbos do in fact fail on Audi and Volvo and also can cause serious engine damage as well.

Even if they did its to late, the turbo already failed and its at that instance when it has failed where the engine can become damaged. Usually the turbo is very noisy when it fails, the noise is the clue to stop driving it along with the light.

Thanks for your posts! Always done at a Subaru shop or a trusted mechanic. Regular grade oil, regular filter. I have a baja Turbo I just bought. Believe it was well maintained. My question is can, and should I, change to synthetic or some type of blend oil? Blend or Synthetic is just fine as long as you change it at an interval that fits how you use it, and most likely this is every miles.

I took the car to a reputable shop to do the swap and have had no problems. Could you outline the years of vehicles that this affected for us? It sounds like they were made aware of the problem about the time my car was produced. Couold you verify if it was fixed before production of the 07MY? The only thing Subaru has done is sent out a TSB trying to clarify to existing Subaru owners from to that you cant change the oil every miles, and instead must change it at a minimum of every Great thread!

I have a Legacy GT that I bought new. I had it replaced by a small town shop that knew very little about turbos. I also was unaware until this week about the turbo problems on my particular car. It was last week and only 21k miles since the first replacement that my second turbo went out.

Another small town shop is replacing it, but they are a little more Subaru-savvy being in the heart of Montana. I would like them to change or at least inspect and clean this suspect banjo bolt while they have the car. They have already dropped the oil pan and found a lot of metal- presumably from the first and second turbo failures. Looking back, I should have researched more upon the first failure and had the oil pan and banjo bolt cleaned.

I did change to synthetic oil after the first failure, but that banjo bolt was unknown to me and I suspect I had a lot of metal particles moving through the system. Given the stories I have read on various forums, I am pleased to have gone the 21k that I went. Going forward, I will be changing oil on a k interval rather than k and sticking with the Mobil 1 synthetic. Lastly, my significant other suggested I sell my car within the next year and get a non-GT Subaru. Thanks for your straight forward clear responses.

I have no idea what they are going to charge you to replace the banjo bolt, that question is really just better left for a local service provider. Sounds like a new car or new wife is in your future however, lol.

Hi Justin Ive been reading your blog and getting some good information on how to care for turbo engines. Since the dealerships here dont sell the turbo specs of the legacy or impreza Im looking to import one of them from Japan through one of the car dealership sites I got from friends that import.

My major worry is ending up with a vehicle with a damaged turbo. Is there any checks I could specifically ask the dealership for in addition to the service history if avaiable? Importing a car is a bit of a risk, if you need to have it repaired I would suggest flying me in, I would love to visit the Caribbean, lol. There are a lot more Modification options with the WRX so if you want to modify that keep that in mind.

Lol I might not be able to afford the car if I flew you in. Ok so they basically are the same then. Im not really into modding so I will be using either one of these cars stock. The reason why Im torn between the two is I like the comfort of the legacy but I also like the more sporty nature of the WRX which is what is making it so hard to chose. This is why I asked about the reliability of the two. Think Im leaning towards the Legacy GT.

Hey guys I have a Subaru Legacy 2. Is there anything I can get to make sure that my turbo does not blow again, or should I just take the easy route and sell? I have over k on ours. The car ran beautiful but is a gas guzzler, I can tell there has been some modifications to the car. It has a blow out valve and recently the turbo is not working.

When I am in 3rd gear and I gas it, it stays at 4. When I go to 5th gear in overdrive, the rpms have a tendency to rev high without gassing it. The last miles I have babied it and did not let the rpm get any higher than 3 rpm. I did this to save gas, is this a result of possible lugging the gears? If so, what do you think is wrong with the turbo? Can the Warrenty cover it? How often should I change the oil for this car? Modified cars are no longer covered under warranty if the mod had anything to do with the issue at hand.

I have been reading your blog for the last several evenings. My daughter purchased a 06 Legacy GT about a year ago. The previous owner had all the service records and the car was in great shape.

I have been changing the oil in it every 3, to 4, miles. I told her that she had to take responsibility for her oil changes. She took it to a place and they put in synthetic oil in it and told her she could go 7, miles on an oil change. After her second oil change the turbo went. So I did some research and found your site and have been reading about this failure. Her car has 92K mikes on it. So I have a few questions I hope you can answer for me. I have done that with my 97 Camry and I am at K miles on it.

I do my own oil changes. I figure a bigger oil filter has more filtering surface area. The intake side was fine with just a little play. The exhaust side was broken off and loose but no broken parts. I feel very lucky. What is your process for cleaning it. I am expected it to be clean. Thank you for all your knoweledge on this subject. It is a performance car and needs to be maintained that way. The exhaust configuration limits the size of the filter, all you can do is use a good oil filter and no I dont like Napa.

The banjo fitting should be serviced every 60, miles if performing oil changes every miles with good oil and good filters.

Thanks for posting, Im sorry she had to learn the hard way that oil changes are as real as any other fairy tale. The car is ammacualte and has a great service history. I have read a lot of the forum and it basically says if you change the oil every ml or Kim and get the banjo screw checked at then you should be right. My question is — is there anything else I should be checking before I buy? Really the Turbo is the biggie with that era Xt, but other things can happen and a good pre purchase inspection should help eliminate some of the gamble.

Other typical things that are less of a concern but should be evaluated none the less would be the CV boots, Wheel bearings and someone really should look at misfire data on a Select monitor when the Vehicle is cold.

First, thank you for taking time to write this. In my hunt of the perfect Subaru your advice has helped me know what questions to ask and what to look for. I just changed the oil and filter last night. Everything looked good, i also pulled out what i think is the Banjo bolt and cleaned it. It was located on the top of the engine side of the turbo and had a small ball point pen size hole in it. My question is, is this the banjo bolt for my car? Most everything i have read states they have a screen in them.

This one did not. Its common to have someone remove the screen, as long as you keep up on your oil changes its ok to use it like that. Would you recommend replacing the pulleys and tensioners as well? The car has k and the dealer confessed the belt has not been done to their knowledge.

If you use the search feature of our website and type in Idlers, you will find articles and a video showing what you should expect to see when replacing the timing belt as well as the potential nightmare if you leave a component to chance. First, wow great thread and props for sticking with it over the years.

Backround on me, avid offroader with every vehical ive ever owned lifted and riding on all terrains, including my 09 wrx. I like to go to B.

No one likes to breakdown when your way past B. Is there a better oil to use, like royal purple? Or is it even worth spending extra money on top brand oil and filters, when still having to change every or less? Lastly do you know mile markers for part replacement? Is that right? What else should I do whilst they are there to save the turbo for failure Thank you for your help I.

Would have had no idea! I really trust these guys. Thanks in advance for any advice. I would want you to after the dust settles to switch away from the Subaru filter to a full, nippon or tokyo roki, going forward.

Thanks for your help!! Hi, I have a 06 sti and I have the the teeny Subaru oil filter as well, what would be a bigger and better replacement for this?

Justin, I have a impreza wrx wagon have you ever heard of the turbo oil line screen giving a misfire code on all 4 cylinders. Dose not seem to be but i have changed coil boot and plugs but still get po on the scan tool and the CEL comes back on after it is cleared but not right away talking it in to a subaru dealer tomorrow but not quite sure of there techs. I have a Subaru Baja Turbo in the shop with blown head gaskets. Coolant went into the block.

The shop says the engine is questionable, due to all the water in the block. Should I replace the short block? I just purchased a subaru outback xt turbo. I like others had no idea it would be this scary owning one. Here is my problem. I purchased the car from a non subaru dealer, when i test drove the car it ran great.

The only problem i found was the battery seemed week when i started it. They agreed to replace the battery, so why the owners son took the car down to the local auto parts store to test and if needed replace the battery we filled out the paper work.

When the son got back with the car it was running horrible and he said the guy at the auto parts store said the car has to relearn itself. I have heard of this before and told them that i will go ahead and take it that I would think it would relearn everything as i drive it. After reading these articals I think I need to put a stop payment on my check. What can I do this all started after the battery change which should have nothing to do with the turbo, right?

Yes we live in an age where changing a battery is not straight forward to the uninformed. It most likely just needs to be given some time and gone through some relearn type drives, the sticky situation is the fact you just bought it, did you have a prepurchase inspection performed so you KNOW the rest of the vehicle is solid or not. Even at mi I was always a quart low of oil,,Car was under 25, mi with this occurrence, Dealer says that is common with Turbo.

I hit rpms in 1st often I imagine that may be causing it. Curious about the Nippon filters, cannot find then anywhere. Will this suffice as a better filter to help alleviate this union screw issue? From reading all of these other articles I consider myself lucky to have made it this far.

Cannot stomach buying another. Sorry to hear that Betsy, were the intervals miles or less, and had anyone ever repalced the screen?

Justin, I recently purchased a turbo baja. I have had the car about a month. It has k miles. No major work ever performed. Timing set was replaced at 92k. I talked to sub dealer and it has never had a turbo job that was clocked in. I am pretty sure it has factory turbo. I have ordered new banjo bolt and washer and plan on changing oil over to syn when bolt arrives. Would you recommend leaving filter out of new bolt? Also would you recommend am soil or Mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic?

I have had no trouble so far other than a rough idle periodically. Also what filter you recommend for oil change? Have any links to products? Either oil will be fine, as long as you understand you really still want to change it every 3 months 3, miles. We performed all the required maintenance etc. The shaft froze and broke off the exhaust turbin. In intake turbin has play and only lite damage. I replaced it with a new factory turbo. I even machined a work around for the banjo screen blockage issue.

I can now remove and inspect the turbo filter in 15 seconds. Drained the oil and replaced it 2 times within 50 miles. Is this going to pass or am I seeing bearings on their way out. I did not drop the pan, but will be doing that this weekend in one last attempt to purge the beast. Oil pan has to be removed any time the turbo fails to clean out debris or the Turbo will fail again shortly. If the oil filter is doing its job would it not filter out the metal until it was blocked up and then open a pressure bypass?

Given that the engine sounds and runs great, am I being foolish thinking that if I clean out the metal filings the engine missed a bullet? As soon as the filter is in bypass the oil is doing just that bypassing the filter so any debris in the oil system will be circulated around in the engine.

Anytime the turbo fails the pan must be removed and debris cleaned out or engine damage can occur, I just cant make it any simpler than that. The turbo just went out on my Outback 2.

First two were replaced by a reputable local import shop. Once the check engine light came on with the flashing cruise control light this last time I had it towed to a Subaru dealer. They dropped the oil pan and said it was full of metal. Good news they say is no piston damage, bad news is I need a new short block along with the new turbo. Yes and no. Third time. First time was at around 96k miles. Second time was 8 months and 7K miles later.

Mechanic covered the labor, but I had to pay for a new part. So why does having metal in the oil pan require a new short block? I can only speculate of course but my guess is that the Oil pan was never removed or the union screw replaced. Can you pass on some advice about what to inspect an look for. I took it out for a test drive an it felt fine. Much better then the 05 that had the check engine light flash as well as the cruise control light an start acting as if it was about to die.

I live this thread an really appreciate all the info I have got out of it. Thanks, alex. I own a Subaru Legacy GT bought used with 15k miles. First turbo blown recently at 88k. I take full reponsibility for this as I changed oil at 5 to 7k intervals and used cheap oil and filters.

I had read about banjo bolt and turbo issues along the way. Car would smell hot and also consume more oil than it was supposed to for the last 20k miles so I knew something was up. I took it in to Subaru for a free inspection and they said the turbo was leaking but that it was not dangerous to drive with it in this condition.

I limped back to my house about 10 miles. I had it towed to the local Subaru dealership in the morning armed with the knowledge of this blog. I asked them to let me see the car while it was up on the hydraulic lift, which they obliged me.

Everything talked about here was discussed with the manager and the mechanic. The old turbo impellar was very wobbly but intact. I watched him as he replaced the banjo I took the old one home I elected to keep the screen in.

He also showed me the oil pan, the new turbo, the oil filter location its a really small filter , the location of both banjo bolts, etc. I cannot tell you how much confidence this gave me. Finally I was able to see everything I had read about with my very own eyes. He also recommended a Dimple magnetic oil pan bolt which I agreed to.

He demonstrated the power of the magnet by pulling his heavy mobile tool bench with the bolt. GT35 Turbo 2. Today's Subaru Impreza turbo kits have evolved significantly from products offered in the past, providing more efficiency and power than ever while still maintaining drivability and fuel economy. Most turbo-equipped vehicles are also quieter due to the turbo itself acting as a sort of muffler.

If you need more horsepower and torque without a lot of hassle, a Subaru Impreza turbo kit is a great way to go and will accomplish this goal with minimal effort. Boost can become an addiction. If you have ridden in a car with a turbocharger then you have probably felt the incredible surge of power as the motor comes into the boost range. If you want to give your car the ultimate in power and acceleration, Subaru Impreza turbos are the way to go.

Our selection of Subaru Impreza turbos runs the gamut from entry level units to high performance screamers so you are sure to find the perfect Subaru Impreza turbo somewhere in our lineup.

Whether on the street or on the track, Subaru Impreza turbochargers will keep you ahead of the competition. While superchargers compress air by using your vehicle's crankshaft for propulsion, Subaru Impreza turbo kits use exhaust pressure to spool the turbo, which draws in ambient air and forces it through to the intake manifold usually going through an intercooler in the process.

The result is a large increase in intake pressure and more power when additional fuel is also introduced into the combustion chamber. Most Subaru Impreza turbo kits will come with everything you need to completely install them, including a fuel management system. The turbocharger is essentially a compressor that is driven by engine exhaust. The exhaust spins an impeller with a turbine on the end that compresses air into the intake manifold generating boost.

This design is extremely popular on modern vehicles, but its history goes all the way back to when a Swiss inventor patented the first turbocharger. In the early years turbos were popular on aircraft engine because they helped negate some of the power loss form operating at altitude.

Today they are used in numerous applications from drag racing to long haul trucking. These little power boosters have really proven their worth. Q: How do you install a turbo kit? A: Turbochargers should be installed by professionals if you have no experience with turbo installations. If you've done the basic bolt-on performance modifications to your car intake, header, exhaust and know your way around your engine, then you might be capable of doing the install yourself.

Normal installation depending on the vehicle takes around hours in most cases, but depends on whether custom work needs to be done. The turbo manifold that comes with the kit replaces the factory exhaust manifold.

The turbo doesn't replace anything assuming this is a turbo kit and not a turbo upgrade kit. The turbo is mounted to a flange on the turbo manifold. Remember the turbo is spooled by the exhaust gases, so once the gases pass through the turbo manifold, it spools the turbo.

Q: Is there a pre-condition my vehicle needs to meet in order to be able to handle a turbo kit? A: Any vehicle can be turbocharged but you must consider whether all of the engine, driveline, and chassis parts can handle big power increases. Most aftermarket turbocharger kits for naturally aspirated cars recommend running no more than psi to prevent engine damage.